This is about our visit to La Marina Grande, the older and more rustic of Sorrento’s two marinas. I had spent months researching just about every aspect of our trip, naturally including the extensive reading of restaurant menus and reviews. I had read that Ristorante Bagni Delfino was a favorite “forget the budget” restaurant for many visitors up to and including Rick Steves. It seemed a worthwhile destination.
As my legions of fans will recall, we had just walked down to La Marina Piccola and back up to street level. We just ambled along in what felt like the correct direction; it’s relatively easy when you have a large body of water with which to orient yourselves. Then, signs appeared pointing to the marina.
After making our way past a tiny park, we went down narrow alleys, between houses and old churches
then down, down, down stairways with lots of switchbacks. At some point La Marina Grande came into view, not looking very grande at all.
A small stretch of coastline, an array of pastel houses with working peoples’ clothes hung outside, and an atmosphere that spoke to me of families having lived in this place for generations. It felt like a real, old fishing village. I even saw a pair of elderly men mending their nets.
There is a simple church in the center of the marina. When the noon bells rang, their voices echoed off the steep hillside and sailed right out over the water.
I would really like to import the tradition of decorative tiles set into the sides of buildings and stone walls: we need more of this sort of thing. Floyd’s shop could have a terra-cotta welding scene, for example; and my therapy office a reassuring representation of healing conversation. Might as well convey some sense of hope.
Sorrento is not a town of broad sandy beaches, by any means. In this marina, the water is a workplace.
And this is a parking lot for boats that work for a living:
Have you ever come home from a vacation with a powerful urge to change the entire color scheme of your house? I kept thinking, we live in a hot place! Yellow and blue would fit right in!
Without really thinking that our hot place is more desert than seaside. (Maybe when I head to the west coast for my annual Mary visit we can go to the paint store and…)
We saw a fishing boat coming in with its catch. Floyd hurried to watch it dock, while I fiddled with the camera. As I started to catch up to Floyd, I watched a man maneuver his tiny three-wheeled delivery truck out of its cramped parking space by hand, pushing it out into the street and jumping in to hurry over to the dock. Don’t you wish you had a car you could just push out of its microscopic parking space?
A cooler was handed from the boat to the little delivery truck, which took off in a whiny two-stroke racket up the steep road to town. Fresh seafood for someone’s restaurant.
There were several kitties getting their beauty sleep. This one didn’t move a muscle when my companion tickled his foot.